The River Itchen was formed over a period of
millions of years by flowing south on soft easily eroded rock like
clay before lowering itself onto harder rocks such as chalk, thus
becoming a chalk stream as it is known today. This section also
contains the Itchen Navigation, a canal excavated and embanked on the
floodplain of the River Itchen to allow cargoes to be transported
between Winchester & Southampton. The coming of the railway
lessened its importance and assured its demise.
This walk of approx. four miles follows both the
river and the Itchen Navigation path upriver from Bishopstoke to
Allbrook and Highbridge and then returning through water meadows and
broad leafed woodland. I have generally presumed the reader is
familiar with the seasonal variations of birdlife.
A good start point is the recreation ground car park
on the B3037 at SU4619. Take the nearby footpath and head upriver
along what the locals call the Barge path or simply "The Barge".
This spot is a good place to find Grey Wagtails who nest and feed
amongst the masonry edges, a trend that continues on all parts of the
river. If you are keeping a list scan the playing field for Gulls,
Pied Wagtails, Mistle Thrushes and Corvids to get you off to a good
start. This walk should yield forty or so species on a spring or
summer walk, around thirty in winter. Listen for the commoner warblers
such as Chiffchaff, Blackcap and Garden warbler as you walk. Sharp
eyes may catch the blue flash of a Kingfisher, or possibly one
perching on an overhanging branch before you undoubtedly put it to
flight. Moorhens pad around the river edge at every stretch. Coots and
Little Grebes appear to have declined recently but are still present.
Martins, Swallows and Swifts find rich feeding on the insects that
abound on the river.
As you leave the playing fields behind the once
landscaped grounds of the Mount House begin on the opposite riverbank.
Some of the old features such as the ornamental fishpond can still be
seen amongst the now overgrown woodland. Listen for Great Spotted and
Green Woodpeckers as well as Nuthatches from here. After a short while
with the ruins of Breach farm away to your right the river forks, look
for nesting swans amongst the reeds where the river divides.
Unfortunately, the right fork is inaccessible, but from likely vantage
points passage migrants such as Common & Green Sandpipers,
Whinchats & Wheatears can occasionally be seen. The left fork is
part of the Itchen Navigation where cargo was once transported by
water from Winchester to Southampton. The riverbank holds good numbers
of Sedge Warblers, more easily heard than seen though a little
patience will be rewarded by an occasional upward foray followed by a
swift descent from whence it came. Spotted Flycatchers launch
themselves from the upper branches overhanging the river, invariably
returning to the same perch.
Shortly before reaching the railway bridge the river
to your right veers away, for some reason this spot is favoured by the
odd pair or so of Tufted Duck during the winter months. The bridge
itself holds roosting Daubenton's bats within its crevices, despite
the frequent rumblings of trains on the main Waterloo line! On
emerging from under the bridge the riverside path continues between a
marshy field and houses to the left. In winter months the garden
feeders attract many small birds, good numbers of tits, Greenfinches,
Chaffinches, Collared Doves and House Sparrows can be found along with
Siskins, Redpolls and Reed Buntings amongst others. The field itself
occasionally holds Snipe, possibly even a breeding pair. Keep an eye
on the tops of the pylons for Cormorants, safe for now from the river
keepers shotgun.
Before long you reach a second railway arch, on
emerging scan the water meadows to your right. Again access is not
possible here but Grey Herons are common along the margins, with
Buzzards, Goosander and Little Egret all possible during the winter
months. Winter thrushes can be found in deceptively good numbers with
a little ground searching. I once spent twenty minutes here straining
through binoculars at a white shape that was either a carrier bag or
my first Little Egret seen locally. On taking flight its yellow feet
and slender black bill confirmed it to be the latter as it flew lazily
to another stream. Last winter numbers increased to a pair, hopefully
an upward trend that will continue.
On reaching the road (B3305) cross to the other side
leaving the Itchen Navigation behind. Continue along the road until
you rejoin the River Itchen, this time to follow it downstream.
Immediately before reaching the white railings there is a gate to the
left marked private. I am told by the river keeper the field beyond
holds Grasshopper Warblers although I've yet to find one. Apparently a
5.30 a.m. yields the best results! Had the suggested hour not been so
early one may have thought he had been misled by the reels of the
anglers that employ him.
Upon crossing the river turn immediately right and
onto the footpath between the river and the houses to the left. This
short stretch must look favourable from the air as past short staying
visitors here have included Snipe, Mandarin Duck, Teal, Pochard, Grey
Lag Goose and a stray Black Swan ! Continue until you cross a stile
and follow the river as it bears to the right, then approach the gate
where a sign proudly declares "Nature Conservation Area", a
measure more designed to assure exclusivity to anglers than wildlife.
From this gate however view the reed bed opposite, this is an
excellent site for Reed and Sedge Warblers as well as Reed Buntings
and a sizeable Pied Wagtail roost. Little Grebe nest here, and rarely
in winter Water Rail have been seen. Continue through the water
meadows, both Lesser and Common Whitethroat nest here, listen for the
aptly named Yaffle as well as its Great Spotted cousin. Sparrowhawks
frequent Lordswood over to your left.
As you pass through a wide gap in the hedge by a
large ash scan around this field for Little Owls, always there but not
easy to find. Shortly before the pylon cross a small bridge, the river
in this area may reward you with Goosander, Little Egret, Redshank,
Curlew, Hobby, Stonechat, Green and Common Sandpipers - season
permitting. I once saw eleven Yellow Wagtails together here, the males
in their splendid spring plumage as bright as canaries. Roe deer are
common here, as is the Water vole which is now decreasing in so many
other areas. This area is well known to the locals as 'The Lloyd'
although you will not find this on any map. The origins of the name
are unclear although my mother-in-law insists it is a corruption of
'The Lide' which itself is a corruption of lido as this was and is a
popular place to swim.
Continue until you reach a small wooden bridge, a
steep climb with many steps await you. Although it is possible to
explore this small copse for badger setts, deer and woodland birds
(Pied Flycatcher once seen here) you must however stay within its
confines, and then follow the footpath onward until you reach Church
Road. Turn right and up to the brow, it is all downhill from here. At
the sign for Bishopstoke Day Services you can survey the Itchen Valley
from here and mentally retrace your footsteps. Continue downhill until
you reach the small recreation ground and turn right at Mellor House
into Oakbank Road and onto the footpath, this will take you back to
the river and carpark. Last winter numbers increased.
Colin Bates
